Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products,9780849339684

Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products

by ;
Edition: 1st
ISBN13: 9780849339684
ISBN10: 0849339685
Format: Hardcover
Pub. Date: 2005-06-19
Publisher(s): CRC Press
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Summary

Wake Forest Univ., Winston-Salem, NC. Reference outlines latest technologies and issues pertinent to formulation, development, testing, and clinical assessment of cosmetic skin care products. For cosmetic dermatologists.

Table of Contents

About the Series iii
Eric Jungermann
Preface ix
Contributors xix
Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products
1(2)
Zoe Diana Draelos
Introduction: How to Utilize This Text
1(2)
PART I: CUTANEOUS FORMULATION ISSUES
Cutaneous Formulation Issues
3(24)
Zoe Diana Draelos
Site-Specific Cutaneous Needs
3(23)
Suggested Readings
26(1)
Formulation for Special Populations
27(8)
Zoe Diana Draelos
Gender
27(1)
Age Issues
28(1)
Skin Color
29(1)
Hair Shaft Architecture
30(1)
Sensitive Skin
31(1)
Contact Dermatitis Issues
32(2)
Acne Issues
34(1)
Summary
34(1)
References
34(1)
PART II: FORMULATION DEVELOPMENT AND APPLICATION
Personal Cleansing Products: Properties and Use
35(32)
Keith Ertel
Introduction
35(1)
Skin Cleansing
35(5)
Personal Cleanser Effects on Skin
40(14)
Some Practical Considerations When Choosing a Personal Cleanser
54(5)
References
59(8)
Toners and Astringents
67(12)
Melanie Smith
Introduction
67(1)
Product Nomenclature
67(1)
Function and Order of Application Within a Skin Care Regimen
68(1)
Formulation Considerations
68(5)
Product Claims
73(1)
Claims Testing Methods
74(1)
Uses in Dermatology
74(1)
Adverse Reactions
75(1)
Summary
75(1)
References
76(3)
The Dry Skin Cycle
79(36)
Paul J. Matts
Anthony V. Rawlings
Introduction
79(1)
Stratum Corneum and Epidermal Structure
80(1)
Stratum Corneum Lipid Chemistry and Biophysics
81(3)
Stratum Corneum Corneodesmosomes and Corneodesmolysis
84(3)
Corneocyte Envelope Maturation and the Role of Transglutaminases
87(2)
Stratum Corneum Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF)
89(3)
The Effect of Humidity on Epidermal Differentiation and Stratum Corneum Quality
92(1)
The Pathophysiology of Winter-and Soap-Induced Dry Skin
93(3)
The ``Dry Skin Cvcle'' Model: A New Wav to Describe Induction and Propagation of the Xerosis
96(3)
Management of Dry Skin
99(7)
Summary and Conclusions
106(1)
References
107(8)
Factors Influencing Optimal Skin Care and Product Selection
115(8)
James Q. Del Rosso
Basic Skin Care Processes
115(1)
The Epidermal Barrier and Water Content
116(1)
Epidermal Barrier Integrity, Function, and Repair
117(1)
Impact of Exogenous Moisturization on Barrier Repair
117(1)
Clinical Implications of Exogenous Moisturization
117(1)
Components of Moisturizer Formulations
118(1)
Balancing Effects and Cosmetic Elegance of Product Components
118(1)
Formulation Characteristics
119(1)
Special Additives and Ingredients
119(1)
The Significance of Gentle Skin Cleansing
120(1)
Basic Cleanser Formulations
120(1)
Conclusion
120(1)
References
121(2)
Antiperspirants
123(12)
John E. Wild
A. C. Lanzalaco
D. F. Swaile
Introduction
123(1)
Antiperspirants
124(2)
Antiperspirant Efficacy
126(2)
Formulation
128(3)
Formulating for the Consumer
131(1)
Introducing New Antiperspirant Active Formulations
131(1)
Medical Approaches to Hyperhidrosis
131(3)
References
134(1)
PART III: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FOR SKIN TREATMENT
Sunscreens
135(18)
J. F. Nash
Paul R. Tanner
Introduction
135(1)
Sunscreens
136(5)
Self-Tanning Products
141(2)
Formulation Challenges
143(1)
Regulatory Issues
144(1)
Safe Sun Strategy
145(3)
Conclusions
148(1)
References
149(4)
Photoprotection and the Prevention of Photocarcinogenesis
153(14)
Nathalie Nguyen
Darrell S. Rigel
Overview
153(1)
Relationship of UV Exposure to Skin Cancer Development
154(1)
Spectral Differences Related to UV Photocarcinogenesis
155(1)
Photocarcinogenesis-Decreasing Photoprotection Modalities
155(1)
Sunscreens
156(1)
Types of Sunscreens and Mechanisms of Action
156(1)
Chemical Sunscreens
157(2)
Physical Sunscreens
159(1)
Photocarcinogenesis Reduction by Wearing Clothing
159(1)
Behavior Modification
160(1)
Effectiveness of Photoprotection
160(1)
Photoprotection and Vitamin D
160(1)
Patient Recommendations and Future Directions
161(1)
References
162(5)
Anti-aging Skin Care Formulations
167(20)
Donald L. Bissett
Introduction
167(1)
Vitamin A
167(3)
Vitamin B3
170(4)
Vitamin C
174(2)
Peptides
176(2)
Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE)
178(1)
Kinetion (N6-Furfuryladenine)
179(1)
Triterpenoids
180(1)
Ubiquinone (Co-Enzyme Q10)
181(1)
Other Technologies
181(1)
Discussion
181(2)
References
183(4)
The Role of Cosmeceuticals in Dermatology
187(18)
David H. McDaniel
Joseph DiNardo
Joseph Lewis
What Are ``Cosmeceuticals''---Cosmetics vs. RX Drugs
187(4)
Domestic and International Regulatory Guidelines Impacting Cosmetics
191(1)
Categories of Currently Popular Cosmeceuticals in Dermatology
192(7)
How to Select the ``Best'' Formulation of a Cosmeceutical
199(1)
The Future of Cosmeceuticals
200(2)
References
202(3)
Skin Lightening Agents
205(14)
Wen-Yuan Zhu
Ru-Zhi Zhang
Tyrosinase Inhibition
205(4)
Product Reduction and Reactive Oxygen Species
209(2)
Inhibition of Melanosome Transfer
211(1)
Skin Turnover Acceleration
212(1)
Traditional Chinese Medicine
213(2)
References
215(4)
Medical and Surgical Approaches to Skin Lightening
219(18)
Marta I. Rendon
Jorge I. Gaviria
Introduction
219(2)
Topical Depigmenting Agents
221(1)
Phenolic Depigmenting Agents
221(3)
Non-Phenolic Agents
224(1)
Topical Cosmeceuticals
225(1)
Botanicals
226(1)
Physical Therapies
226(1)
Chemical Peels
227(1)
Microdermabrasion
228(1)
Dermabrasion
228(1)
Lasers
228(2)
Our Therapeutic Approach
230(1)
Conclusions
231(1)
References
232(5)
Topical Exfoliation---Clinical Effects and Formulating Considerations
237(14)
M. Elizabeth Briden
Barbara A. Green
Exfoliation
237(1)
Physical Exfoliants: Scratching the Surface
238(1)
Chemical Exfoliation
239(8)
Conclusion
247(1)
References
247(4)
Over-the-Counter Acne Medications
251(22)
Theresa Chen
Yohini Appa
Introduction
251(1)
Clinical Considerations
252(1)
Highlights of Over-the-Counter Acne Monograph
253(1)
Formulation of Over-the-Counter Acne Products
253(1)
Trends in Over-the-Counter Acne Formulations
254(1)
Advances in Over-the-Counter Acne Formulations
255(12)
Summary
267(1)
References
268(5)
Acne Treatment Methodologies
273(24)
Emmy M. Fernandez
Andrea L. Zaenglein
Diane M. Thiboutot
Introduction
273(3)
Morphology
276(1)
Topical Retinoid
276(3)
Cleansers
279(1)
Hydroxy Acids
279(2)
Benzoyl Peroxide
281(1)
Other Topical Treatments
281(1)
Oral Antibiotics
281(5)
Hormonal Therapy
286(1)
Isotretinoin
287(3)
Manual Treatments
290(1)
Phototherapy
291(1)
References
292(5)
Topical Botanicals
297(12)
Tracy Cornuelle
Jan Lephart
Introduction
297(1)
Selecting Plant Species
298(1)
Sourcing Plant Material
298(1)
Accurate Identification of Plant Species
299(1)
Harvesting Plant Material
299(1)
Cosmetic Extracts
300(2)
Standardization of Extracts
302(1)
Quality Issues
303(1)
Safety and Toxicology
304(1)
Conclusions
305(1)
References
305(4)
Herbs in Cosmeceuticals: Are They Safe and Effective?
309(42)
Carl Thornfeldt
Background
309(1)
Processing Botanicals
310(1)
Regulatory Climate
311(1)
Adverse Reactions
311(17)
Specific Herbs
328(19)
Summary
347(1)
References
347(4)
Topical Anti-inflammatories
351(26)
Bryan B. Fuller
Dustin R. Smith
Introduction
351(1)
Biology of Skin Inflammation
351(2)
Prescription and Over-the-Counter Treatments for Inflammation and Mechanism of Action
353(8)
Anti-inflammatory Cosmeceutical ``Actives''
361(2)
Biological Screening Assays to Identify Novel Anti-inflammatory Compounds
363(5)
Development of Effective Topical Formulations
368(5)
Conclusions
373(1)
References
373(4)
Topical Nutritional Antioxidants
377(26)
Karen E. Burke
Introduction
377(1)
Vitamin C
377(2)
Vitamin E
379(5)
Selenium
384(2)
New Combinations of Antioxidants
386(1)
Soy Extract: Genistein
387(3)
Alpha-Lipoic Acid
390(4)
Ubiquinone
394(1)
Summary
395(1)
References
396(7)
What Is Next in Skin Care Cosmetic Products?
403(6)
Lauren A. Thaman
Cosmeceuticals
403(2)
Nutraceuticals
405(1)
Medical Mimics
405(1)
Customized Products
406(1)
Skin Tone Alteration
406(1)
Delivery Systems
407(1)
New Users
407(1)
The Skin Care Market
407(1)
References
408(1)
Index 409

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